Thailand, Phuket. May 14, 2005.

CARON JAMES

Despite the devastating tsunami, it's business as usual in the resorts of southern Thailand, as CARON JAMES reports

ROBUST platters of antipasto followed by creamy mushroom risotto, spaghetti marinara and crunchy bread -- you could be in Italy.

The European decor of the restaurant and the view across the sparkling pool further enhance the idea.

In fact, you are in Thailand, at the five-resort Laguna complex on Phuket island -- dining at Puccini Restaurant in the Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket.

The Laguna's pristine beach and extensive canals, golf courses, pools, landscaped gardens and 30 restaurants and bars mean you never have to leave the complex. But those who want to experience the "real" Thailand can easily visit nearby villages.

Usually at 90 per cent occupancy, the Sheraton Grande, like all other hotels around the tsunami-hit Phuket region, has only about a third of those figures now. But tourist numbers are rising. On the upside, there are no queues and beaches seem almost empty.

Amazingly, there is little evidence of the devastating tsunami's path. At the Sheraton Grande, some beachfront rooms and facilities were damaged and these are being rebuilt. The hotel made headlines when one of its elephants, Ning Nong, rescued English tourist Amber Mason, 8, from the beach. Amber's parents have pledged to send money every month for the rest of Ning Nong's life.

Thais are overwhelmingly grateful to the tourists who are coming back. One woman working in the Laguna's Thai craft shopping centre said she hoped life would return to normal soon.

"My husband and I had a shop on Patong beach," she said. "It was swept away, but we were saved. Now my husband is out of work, but I am lucky to get a job here -- we have to support our daughter."

Tens of thousands of Thais -- mostly in the tourism and hospitality industries -- lost their jobs after the tsunami, according to Khun Kanok Abhiradee, president of Thai Airways. To attract tourists back, Thai Airways, the Tourism Authority of Thailand and the Thailand Hotels Association have put together many special deals.

But back to the Laguna. The fact that here, in southern Thailand, there is a fine Italian restaurant such as Puccini, is no surprise. Thailand has been influenced by foreigners for centuries, starting with the Chinese. The first European to write about it was the Italian traveller Marco Polo -- calling it Locac -- in the 14th century. In the early 16th century, expatriates from the Middle East and Europe were making their mark. Before the Portuguese arrived, chillies were unknown in Thai cuisine.

Up the steep hill at the end of the main road through Patong is the Diamond Cliff Resort and Spa. The rooms have polished wood floors, Thai fabric furnishings and wall murals. Ocean-front rooms have balconies with spectacular views.

Next to Phuket island, on the mainland, is Krabi. While some areas of this province were damaged, others were hardly touched. The Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort is perfect for a romantic beachside walk at sunset, followed by a cocktail at the Martinis bar and an Asian buffet at Mangosteen's restaurant.

There's nothing much in the way of shopping, but you can always take a taxi to nearby Krabi town. Be sure to take a half-day boat ride from Krabi to its many offshore islands. They are the perfect places to spend a few hours snorkelling and picnicking. Some of the steep stone islands also offer climbing excursions.

Like a phoenix from the ashes, southern Thailand has risen again. It awaits only the tourists.

LOWDOWN

GETTING THERE: Phuket has an international airport and Thai Airways flies there five times a week overnight from Sydney, via Melbourne. Thai is offering 10 nights in Phuket from $1127 plus taxes, on sale until May 31 (call 8662 2266). Krabi's airport will become international next year. From Bangkok, Krabi is an 80-minute flight. It takes three hours by road or ferry to get from Krabi to Phuket. Beware, Phuket traffic is jammed in rush hours and can add considerable time to the journey to Patong.

TAKE: Mosquito spray (many hotels don't stock it) and sunscreen lotion (expensive in Thailand).

DEALS: Check with travel agents, as packages change regularly. Many hotels are offering reduced rates, such as Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket, with rooms starting at $166 a night (plus taxes) for two people, including breakfasts and airport transfers. Stay four nights and receive a room upgrade.

Source: hotels.com

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